The summit tour of the Eiger
The summit tour of the Eiger
Fränzi Schiesser tells us about her tour on the narrow ridge
Packing the essentials for the upcoming tour into my rucksack, I set off for Grindelwald around midday. A few thoughts about the Eiger run through my head - reports from tours, programmes from the media, which I have been dealing with in the past months. And now the time has come. I have great anticipation and respect at the same time. Because the images of the impressive and exposed Mittellegigrat are buzzing around in my mind. No need to doubt, I tell myself - I am well prepared and know what to expect. I've done unforgettable and beautiful preparation tours, I'm acclimatised, my carbohydrate stores are full and the weather forecast is also good. These positive thoughts ease my tension somewhat.
After a good night's sleep, we have breakfast with the obligatory "Kafi". Outside, while roping up in front of the hut in the headlamp light, a first grandiose moment awaits me: the colours on the horizon and the Mittellegi ridge illuminated in the lights for the anniversary ascent. On the short rope we overcome many upswings and climb up towards the "big tower". Only our steps on the rock break the silence a little. With the increasing snow and ice, we now mount the crampons. The rope teams have started staggered, so we only have to wait once for a short while. This offers the opportunity to eat a bar and look down into the depths from the ridge: Indescribable - to the left and right it goes "ds Loch ab". In "green" Grindelwald can be seen down in the valley. Concentration is still required at every step. A slip or misstep could be fatal. With great climbing with the crampons in the limestone, we gain height. Over a narrow saddle we continue to the "big upswing". For a change, we climb on ropes, but always stand on the crampons, that saves strength and energy - don't pull up with your arms. A mountain guide once gave me this advice.
We are approaching the summit. But for a moment it is shrouded in a cap of fog. Nevertheless, we are grateful, very happy and proud to have made it. Now we have a summit cola and chocolate to celebrate the moment. But the way is still long. We set off for the descent via the south ridge. I resolutely put two small limestones in my jacket pocket as a souvenir. After only a few metres we are back in the warming sun. We abseil down several steep steps. Down over platy rock steps. A steep firn slope leads us to the northern "Eigerjoch". I am curious, there the rock changes from limestone to gneiss. Indeed, beautiful and varied climbing leads us over rock, firn and ice passages to the last firn ridge in the southern "Eigerjoch". Once there, I am overwhelmed by the quiet mountain world and the view back to the distant Eiger summit. Because of the crevasses, we walk on the stretched rope across the glacier to the Mönchsjochhütte.
I am grateful for this great tour. A big thank you to Fabian! The last walk to the Jungfraujoch takes us back to civilisation. A culture shock, so many people after this silence. I would have loved to be back at the Mittellegi Hut. But the well-deserved "Kafi" in front of my eyes and in my nose. We descend with a full train, get off at the Eigergletscher station and walk purposefully to a quiet restaurant and end this unforgettable tour together with another rope team in good conversation. Merci Fabian! Also a thank you to Mirjam from the Mittellegihütte, Outdoor and also my family, who always let me "pull".







