n autumn 2022, Marco Bomio came up with the idea to organize an expedition to Ladakh as part of the 125th anniversary of the Grindelwald Mountain Guide Association. The focus was on Mount Nun in northern India, which stands at 7,135 meters.

A small team soon formed, consisting of Marco Bomio (mountain guide), Hansruedi Gertsch (mountain guide), Tina Gertsch (hiking leader), and Pascal Kolly (mountain specialist with the cantonal police).

On August 20, the four of us flew from Zurich to Delhi. After a one-day stopover and a formal visit to the IMF (Indian Mountaineering Foundation), we continued by plane to Leh in Ladakh. There we met the rest of the expedition team: a Belgian woman, a British-Indian dual citizen, six Sherpas, and a chef with two kitchen assistants—a vibrant mix of people from different nations.

We traveled by bus to Kargil and then continued the next day to Tangol, where we set up our first camp. After spending one night there, we hiked up to base camp at 4,600 meters above sea level—a welcome escape from the intense heat of the valley.

Route to Camp 1
After a brief acclimatization hike to 5,000 meters, we began our ascent to Camp 1 the following day. A steep moraine led us to the glacier. Slowly, we made our way through a broken section of ice up to a large glacier plateau where Camp 1 was located at 5,500 meters.

There, for the first time, we caught sight of our summit—Mount Nun. A wave of unease hit all of us as we gazed at the mountain: its steep pyramid shape coated in shimmering ice and unstable rock was both beautiful and intimidating.

Our Sherpas informed us that the planned normal route wasn’t passable this season due to a massive crevasse. We’d have to switch to the northwest side—the much steeper line taken by the mountain’s first ascenders.

Route to Camp 2
After a day to acclimatize at Camp 1, we packed up our tents and headed toward Camp 2. It lay just 100 vertical meters higher and was reachable via a short glacier walk. To make the most of the day—and keep ourselves active—we continued climbing to 6,000 meters that same afternoon. The air noticeably thinned at that altitude, slowing our pace significantly.

After another cold night surrounded by snow and ice, we descended back to base camp. A much-needed rest day followed, giving us time to prepare for the upcoming summit push.

Route to Camps 1 & 2
On September 2, we climbed back up to Camp 1. Well-acclimatized by then, the ascent felt noticeably easier this time. While the altitude was still present, we handled it much better than during our first climb. The next day, we crossed the glacier to Camp 2, where we took another well-deserved rest day.

Route to Camp 3
Then we continued up the steep face toward Camp 3—an ascent of nearly 800 vertical meters over just 1.3 kilometers. Secured to fixed ropes, we moved our jumars up the line step by step, stopping regularly to catch our breath.

Shortly after midday, we reached Camp 3 at 6,350 meters. Comfort was limited here. Every movement was exhausting, and the camp was perched on a steep slope where one wrong step could have had serious consequences. Even going to the toilet became a strenuous and precarious task.

After a short night, we began our summit attempt at 2:30 a.m. on September 6. An icy wind hit our faces as we started the climb. Step by step, breath by breath, we pushed our way up the mountain.

At 6,500 meters, I had to turn back with my Sherpa—the altitude had taken its toll. The Belgian climber and the British-Indian teammate also turned around with their Sherpas due to exhaustion and the effects of the altitude.

Marco, Pascal, and Hansruedi pushed on and reached the summit of Mount Nun at 8:30 a.m.—only the second expedition to do so that year. What a fantastic achievement—congratulations to them!

After their summit success, they made a swift descent back to Camp 3, then on to Camp 2, and the following day to base camp. At last, it was warmer again, and the air rich with oxygen. We celebrated the summit with a delicious cake from the kitchen—and above all, with gratitude that we had all returned safely.

The next day, we continued down to Tangol and, after a few days of rest, began our journey home.

An unforgettable adventure in a truly beautiful country!

One 4,000-meter peak after another rises here—including, of course, the Dufourspitze, which at 4,634 meters is the highest mountain in Switzerland. These iconic summits definitely belong in every mountaineer’s tour log.

More information

Climbing Piz Bernina—the only 4,000-meter peak in the Eastern Alps—is a must for any mountaineer! And Piz Palü, considered one of the most beautiful glacier peaks, is another that simply has to be in your tour log.

More information

The Mountaineering Taster Course gives you a solid introduction to the world of alpine climbing. Our mountain guide will show you how to move confidently and safely on rock and steep terrain. This course is the perfect starting point for future mountain adventures.

More information