3 Peaks Over 4000 Meters in 4 Days, July 2023

125 Years of the Grindelwald Mountain Guides Association

An ice axe is stuck in the snow on a mountain peak overlooking a mountain landscape.
An ice axe is stuck in the snow on a mountain peak overlooking a mountain landscape.

“Alois” on Dent Blanche

When my mountain guide picks me up, I'm already a bit excited. I'm supposed to accompany him for four days in Valais, where the mountains are reportedly quite high, higher than in the Bernese Alps! Will I be able to meet his expectations? There's still surprisingly a lot of snow, and that would be my domain!

I'm attached upside down to his backpack. Not the most comfortable way to travel. On the other hand, it's quite amusing to see the mountains hanging from the sky.

Red backpack with helmet and ice pick on grass; mountain landscape in the background.

“White Tooth” is our destination. Better known by its French name “Dent Blanche”. Speaking of names: My mountain guide decided to call me “Alois”. He thinks “Anniversary Ice Axe” sounds a bit stiff. I like that. After all, people have names too.

After nearly five hours, we reach the hut. The scenery is very beautiful. I'm already looking forward to seeing the high Valais mountains up close.

In the hut, I witness an interesting conversation. Breakfast is supposed to be at 4:30. Too late for such a tour, say my mountain guide and two of his colleagues. After an apparently interesting discussion in a language I don't understand, breakfast is moved to 3:30!

The three guide teams start almost simultaneously and quickly ascend in the light of headlamps. Soon, my distant relatives, the crampons, come into play and oops, now it's serious for me too. Whenever the snow slope gets a bit steeper, I carve steps into the snow. I love it! My mountain guide calls it 'cutting'.

Mountaineer with helmet and rope on a snow-covered slope, with mountains in the background at sunrise.

When he climbs on the rock, I'm tucked between his back and the backpack. A rather comfortable position for me, as I don't have to see the surroundings upside down for once.

Climber with helmet and rope on a snow-covered mountain ridge in the Alps.

In less than four hours, we're already on the summit, enjoying the view and taking photos!

An ice axe is stuck in the snow on a mountain peak overlooking a mountain landscape.

The descent is swift, and soon we're back at the large gendarme, where my mountain guide rappels his guest. Then it happens: My mountain guide bends over a bit too much, I lose my grip, slip out from behind his backpack, and fall into the depths. Desperately, I try to hold on in the snow. Wham! After more than thirty meters, I manage to dig my pick into the steep couloir at the last moment. Carefully, to avoid being finished off by falling ice chunks, my guide lowers his guest down to me. With a steady hand, he rescues me from my precarious situation and returns me to my mountain guide.

Mountaineers with helmets and climbing equipment on a snow-covered ridge in the Alps.

After this incident, I'm completely exhausted and glad to soon be back at the hut, and once again, albeit upside down, safely carried down to the valley.

Person with ice pick and backpack on snow-covered mountain in front of rocky backdrop.

“Alois” on Nadelhorn

After a night in the tent – something new for me too – my mountain guide meets his next guest. The woman is not yet twenty and wants to climb her first four-thousander. Will it go well?

I find the ascent to the Mischabel Hut exciting, but I can't be of any use. Everything is over rocks and stones, no snow or ice.

Mountaineer with backpack and helmet on rocky ridge; woman climbing with helmet and gloves; alpine flowers.

I get to experience a special surprise at the Mischabel Hut: the mountain guide's aperitif. Too bad I can't handle human food!

Mountain hut on rocks, four people at a table in the hut, hiking poles on the wall.

The next morning, I'm soon in my element. The route mostly leads over snow and ice. Now and then, I can carve a few steps into the snow or at least improve existing ones. My comrades in the other teams seem a bit lazy. They're often trapped on the backpacks or serve only as support during the ascent.

Mountaineer with helmet and rope on a snow-covered slope, with mountains in the background at sunrise.

Soon, we're standing on the summit of Nadelhorn at 4327 meters above sea level. Our guest lives exactly 4000 meters below!

People in red jackets and helmets are climbing a snow-covered mountain with ice axes and ropes.

The descent goes smoothly. While I rest in the hut, my mountain guide accompanies his guest down the upper, difficult part of the hut path.

The guest for tomorrow's tour already shows up. Busy times!

“Alois” on Lenzspitze and Nadelhorn

Before dinner, there's another aperitif. This time with many mountain guides, all of whom look at me approvingly! Some even claim to have siblings of mine at home! Why don't they bring them along!

A table with various foods, including meat, cheese, pastries, and an ice pick.

The tour over the east ridge to Lenzspitze is beautiful, and I can occasionally be of service to my mountain guide.

Mountaineer with helmet and rope on a snow-covered slope, with mountains in the background at sunrise.
Mountaineer with helmet and climbing gear on a snowy mountain peak at sunset.
Person with helmet and climbing equipment climbs rocky mountain, snow-covered peaks in the background.

From Lenzspitze over to Nadelhorn, he stows me behind his back again. Better that way, as there's only solid rock. I can't do anything there.

Mountain peak with a snow-covered slope and rocky summit, surrounded by blue sky and distant mountains.

I know the descent from Nadelhorn from yesterday! Only the pace is slightly different. In ninety minutes, we descend the thousand meters from the summit to the hut. Those old men are crazy! Together, they're over 130 years old!

Person with helmet and climbing equipment standing on mountain peak, surrounded by snow-covered Alps.
Two people with helmets and climbing gear are standing on a snow-covered mountain peak.
Mountain Guide Association Grindelwald Anniversary Ice Axe

125 Years of the Grindelwald Mountain Guides Association

An anniversary, a forged ice a...