Piz Bernina Biancograt

From the valley floor of Val Roseg, the path climbs through sparse larch forest. For a nostalgic touch, you can take a horse-drawn carriage into the valley to ease the long approach. After crossing the bridge over the stream, the real ascent begins: initially moderate, then increasingly steep, the path winds over scree and rocks to the Tschierva Hut. Here, not only is our first camp waiting, but also a first glimpse of tomorrow's goal: the elegantly curved Biancograt. In the evening, we have dinner with the mountain guide and finalize plans for the tour. (Height and distance figures are calculated without the horse-drawn carriage. The ascent could be shortened by 2-3 hours.)

We start in the dark, headlamps illuminating the rocks. Across boulder fields and scree slopes, we reach the Tschierva Glacier. The climb becomes steeper, the rocks more massive. At Fuorcla Prievlusa, the Biancograt begins: a dreamlike sharp snow ridge reaching for the sky. Every step requires full concentration, the rope connecting us as a well-coordinated team. At Piz Alv or Pizzo Bianco, easy but exposed climbing awaits before the final ridge to Piz Bernina. On the summit, we enjoy the unique view. The descent leads via the normal route to Rifugio Marco e Rosa.

After a short night, we start early. The Fortezza Ridge demands full attention once more: climbing sections, steep passages, exposed areas. Step by step, we continue the descent. The tension eases as we descend to the Morteratsch Glacier. At the end of the glacier, the hiking trail begins. One last look back: the mighty slopes of Piz Bernina, the Biancograt in all its glory – and the knowledge of having been up there.