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Pollux and Breithorn Traverse

Sporty
2 days
6x 4000m peaks in 2 days
Climbing on great rock above 4,000 m (13,123 ft)
Impressive glacier plateau

Season:

July September

Departure Times

09:15
Zermatt train station

Zermatt Train Station

Key info

Extensive mountaineering experience
Familiarity with ice axe and crampons
At least 8 hours of hiking with a backpack
Climbing up to Grade 3 in rock and snow

Overview

Recommended for: Anyone who trades comfort for the view.

An impressive glacier plateau and solid rock – six 4000-meter peaks in two days, an unforgettable trip!

An alpine challenge for experienced mountaineers. Two days, six summits, rock climbing above 4,000 m (13,123 ft). On the first day climb Pollux, and on the second traverse the rock and snow ridges of the five Breithorn peaks. A trip for those seeking altitude, vastness, and true mountain experiences.

Itinerary

Meeting points
Day1
Day 1: Pollux Summit – Climbing on Snow and Rock
Meeting point is in Zermatt, from there take the train to Klein Matterhorn. After a brief preparation with crampons and rope, the approach leads us across the Breithorn plateau. The route initially follows the glacier before transitioning to rock on the foot of Pollux. The climb includes rocky sections and some steep snow just before reaching the summit at 4,092 m (13,425 ft). After a rest, descend along the same route and continue to Rifugio Guide Val d’Ayas, where we spend the night.
Distance
7 km
Ascent
+550 m
Descent
-950 m
Walking time
5 hrs
Day2
Day 2: Breithorn Traverse – 5 Summits in One Day
Early departure from the hut, we hike up the glacier to Roccia Nera (4,075 m / 13,369 ft). The traverse begins with a steep snow slope and leads over the eastern (4,106 m / 13,474 ft) and western Breithorn twins (4,139 m / 13,579 ft). Then, we descend into the Selle before reaching the central summit (4,159 m / 13,678 ft) via a mixed snow and rock ridge. From there, it's a short way to the Breithorn main summit (4,164 m / 13,661 ft). Descend via the normal route back to Klein Matterhorn. From there, return by train to Zermatt.
Distance
8 km
Ascent
+1000 m
Descent
-600 m
Walking time
7-8 hrs

What's included

Guiding from a licenced mountain guide/ aspirant guide
Expenses of the mountain guide
Overnight stay(s) with half-board for the mountain guide
Hut reservation
Summit Certificate

Not included

Costs for cable cars and travel expenses of the guest
Overnight stay(s) in bunk room with half-board for the guest
Snacks
Technical equipment
Costs for a taxi if needed (guests pay for the guide's share)

Pack list

Backpack 25-30 l

Warm, functional clothing
Wind jacket or GTX jacket
Shell pants
Mountaineering or hiking pants
Sunhat
Gloves (ideally one thin and one thick pair)
Beanie or headband
Extra underwear and socks

Crampon proof mountaineering boots

Crampons with anti-snow plates
Harness
Ice axe
Helmet
Trekking pole

Sunglasses (category 3 or 4)
Sunscreen lotion and lip balm (minimum factor 30, 50 better)
Thermos flask, drink bottle
Headlamp
Silk sleeping bag liner
Toiletries
ID card
SAC/DAV permit (if you have one)
GA or Half Fare Travelcard (if you have)
Earplugs (optional)
Camera and binoculars (optional)
Snacks

Weather info

General weather info

Weather can influence any tour, and a clear decision is often only possible on the day itself. We review conditions carefully and remain within our safety limits, and bad weather alone does not mean we have to stop.

Make sure we can reach you with current contact information in case your booking changes. Silence from us means your tour is still planned or the final call is not yet made. If we need to cancel, you can rebook, choose another activity, or get a full refund.

For detailed advice on how to prepare for (and enjoy!) bad weather days in Interlaken, check out our weather blog 

Meeting points

Meeting point
Activity location

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